As soon as the protests had been violently quashed by the army, the regime set about making everything look normal again. At the UN General Assembly, the Burmese junta's Foreign Minister, Nyan Win, even went so far as to declare, "Normalcy has now returned to Myanmar [Burma]."
But Rangoon felt to me like a movie set. I imagined an invisible director ordering a cluster of fruit vendors to set up their stalls at the edge of a market, calling for a crowd of pedestrians to surge across a busy street, and hanging billboard advertisements for the latest cinema releases.
On my first day in Rangoon I telephoned an old friend who had a merry greeting: "Welcome to my wonderful country where nothing has just happened!" Later that same day I bumped into another friend who was visibly agitated by events: "Everyone is just pretending," she told me.
Things might look normal on the surface but, in the diary I kept while I was there, the adjectives I used to describe the moods of the various people I spoke to are repeated over and over again: angry, scared, depressed, angry, scared, depressed, angry, scared, depressed...
In order to solidify the crackdown, the regime's lackeys and informers are infiltrating teashops, schools, monasteries -- anywhere where people gather. As a result, what little trust existed before the recent protests took place is being systematically broken down.